Mexico is a perfect blend of traditional culture and colonial legacy, says Jaideep Mukerji, as he explores the country’s historic buildings, majestic monuments and imposing cathedrals

Jaideep Mukerji with Veeresh Malik

Mexico—one of the world’s fastest growing economies—is a culturally rich country with diverse ethnic groups and land that varies from tropical jungles to snow-capped volcanic peaks. It was in Mexico that Aztec culture of the 13th to 16th century and the ancient Mayan culture from 2000 BC to the 16th century flourished and reached a degree of sophistication. With the Spanish conquest of 1521 began the colonial period that left a rich legacy of historic buildings, monuments and cathedrals—not to mention the Spanish language itself. The largest ethnic group in present-day Mexico are the ‘Mestizos’ of mixed Spanish and native ancestry. Apart from the Mestizos, there are 56 different indigenous groups who retain their sense of distinct identity, largely because of their rural isolation. The Mexican government recognises that these groups need special economic assistance for their cultures to survive.

I began my journey with Mexico City, the largest city in the Americas and the world’s third largest metropolitan area by population located in the Valley of Mexico, a large valley in the high plateaus at the centre of Mexico at an altitude of 7,350ft (2,240 metres). Mexico City is the political, cultural and financial centre of the country.



Listed as a World Heritage Site is the Zocalo (or central plaza) in the heart of Mexico City, one of the largest city squares in the world that has been a gathering place for Mexicans since Aztec times. Later, during Spanish times, the square served as the venue for the swearing-in of viceroys, royal proclamations and military parades. Today, Independence Day ceremonies and religious events (such as the festivals of Holy Week and Corpus Christi) are held here. In one corner is the Templo Mayor or Great Temple of the Aztecs. Unearthed in 1978, the Temple was once the holiest shrine of the Aztecs. In the centre of the square is a flagpole with an enormous Mexican flag that is ceremoniously raised and lowered each day and carried into the National Palace.

One of the most recognisable landmarks in downtown Mexico is a victory column located on a roundabout named the Angel of Independence or El Ángel. El Ángel was built to commemorate the 100th anniversary of Mexico’s War of Independence in 1910. Later, it was converted into a mausoleum for the most important heroes of that War.

Around 300km and a three-and-a-half hour drive west of the capital is Morelia, a city which was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1991 for its well-preserved colonial buildings and layout of the historic centre. Once known as the City of Pink Stone, the heart of historic Morelia is the cathedral and its surrounding square, the Plaza de Armas. The first church on the site was built in 1577 with earth and wood. The present cathedral built of pink ‘cantera’ stone was finally completed in 1744 and has two 60-metre high towers that dominate the skyline of Morelia and are the second tallest Baroque towers in Mexico.

Inside the cathedral, the baptismal font made of silver in the 19th century was used to baptise Mexico’s first emperor, Agustín de Iturbide. At the start of the 20th century was added a musical organ from Germany which has 4,600 pipes and is one of the largest in Latin America. The cathedral sponsors a sound & light show every Saturday after 8pm.

Surrounding the square are shops selling souvenirs and cafés where one can get either a simple cup of delicious Mexican coffee or an elaborate meal; all the while, you are serenaded by the traditional Mexican mariachi bands. Spicy fruit-salads, a variety of tacos, beans and local-style sandwiches are easily available from street vendors. With several hotels conveniently located within walking distance of Morelia’s central square, it is easy to stay, eat and explore the historic centre... all on foot.

The ‘artesanal’ or local handicraft emporium is located in an old convent restored in 1979 and now used as the Culture House of Morelia. In several rooms converted to workshops, you can see artists creating local handicrafts, and in the connected Mask Museum, is a collection of masks originating from all 20 states of Mexico.

 From Morelia, I drove 65km south to Pátzcuaro, a large town founded in the 1320s located on the shores of a lake bearing the same name. Pátzcuaro has retained its colonial and indigenous character since then and has been named as one of the ‘100 Historic World Treasure Cities’ by the United Nations.

Pátzcuaro has worked hard to retain its traditional colonial-indigenous look and, unlike Morelia, houses in Pátzcuaro are made of adobe and wood and generally have red-tiled roofs. Cobblestone streets dominate the town centre down to the shores of the lake. The town square is surrounded by covered walkways filled with shops selling a wide variety of crafts, many in bright colours. Pátzcuaro is the market hub of the region, with people from the smaller villages bringing in their own crafts such as copperware, black pottery, musical instruments, baskets and wooden crafts.

The town square is called the Plaza Vasco de Quiroga or the Plaza Grande. The Plaza Grande was dedicated to Vasco de Quiroga in 1964, when a fountain containing a bronze statue of the bishop was placed in the centre. The Plaza is surrounded by old, stately ash trees and colonial-era mansions with quaint cafés at the street level. It is easy to spend a few hours sitting and watching the local people go about their daily routine.

Pátzcuaro sits on the southern edge of Lake Pátzcuaro which still has important economic and cultural significance for the town. Associated with Pátzcuaro are a number of islands, the best-known of which is Janitzio, meaning ‘corn hair’. It is recognisable through the 40-metre statue of José María Morelos y Pavón that is on the top of the hill. Underneath the statue is a series of murals about the life of this Mexican hero. There are four other islands in the lake. La Pacanda is in the center. This island has a small pond in it with carp and ducks. Yuneén (meaning ‘half moon’) Island is near the centre. Its attractions include its vegetation, traditional houses and cabins for visitors. Urandenes is closer to Pátzcuaro and consists of three islands surrounded by canals in which white fish are raised. Residents here fish with butterfly nets. Tecuena is the smallest island in the lake; the name means ‘good honey’. The docks at Pátzcuaro have boats that travel to these islands.

Returning to Mexico City, I took a flight with one of the low cost airlines, of which there are several to choose from, to Cancun, a seaside resort packed with hotels located on the Caribbean coast of the Yucatán Peninsula of southern Mexico. Archaeological remains dating back to some 3,000 years show that before the arrival of the Spanish in the area, Yucatán was the centre of the Mayan civilisation. The ruins of over a hundred Mayan sites of varying sizes can still be found on the peninsula including the well-known ones of Chichen Itza and Uxmal.

 Around 240km west of Cancun is perhaps the most stunning of the many Mayan ceremonial sites and the second-most visited place in all of Mexico. The famous and World Heritage Site of Chichen Itza contains many impressive stone buildings and pyramids in different states of preservation of which the most important ones have been restored.

The buildings of Chichen Itza are grouped in a series of complexes once separated from each other by a series of low walls. The best known of these complexes is the Great North Platform set which includes the monuments of El Castillo, the Temple of Warriors and the Great Ball Court. The best known and iconic pyramid called ‘El Castillo’ or ‘the castle’ is roughly at the centre of the site.

Climbing it is quite a challenge and those who make it are rewarded with a spectacular view of the entire site of Chichen Itza and the surrounding countryside. A trip inside the pyramid is quite the opposite though since the dark and unbearably humid corridors and chambers can be too much for some people to bear.

Early morning, before the rush of tourists begins, Chichen Itza is a magical place. I had the opportunity to wander around the site for two hours before the gates were opened and watching the massive pyramid take shape through the lifting fog is an experience I will not soon forget.

Why Go There: Mexico is a tourism-friendly country with over 30 world heritage sites. It is a colourful melting pot of different cultures and ethnic groups and has good hotels and efficient low-cost domestic airlines. Chichen Itza has just recently been internationally voted as one of the new Seven Wonders of the World. Explore the ‘Visit Mexico’ website at www.visitmexico.com

Getting There: The US and European airlines offer flights to Mexico City and to Cancun, via the US or through major European gateway cities.

Visas: Tourist visas are easily available from the Mexican Embassy in New Delhi. Complete details and the application form are available online from the Mexican Embassy website. As of May 2010, holders of a valid visa for the US (any nationality) do not require a separate visa for Mexico.

Where To Stay: Although it is easy to book hotels and tickets for domestic air travel within Mexico online, it is recommended that you go through a recognised Mexican tour operator who will be able to provide you with complete travel support in a country where the main language is Spanish. I made my travel arrangements directly with www.condorverdetravel.com, one of the most experienced travel operators.